It is always pleasure to visit Beirut. What is great about Lebanon is Lebanese! I have been to many beautiful countries before, but people and land have not always been a match. In Lebanon, you feel safe and welcome, no matter how awful the politics is. True, it has always had a rough neighborhood. Israel, Syria and beyond, have chosen to do their battles, contests and dirty games in the open arena of this, otherwise, peaceful land. Still, you could be in the middle of a raging war, but not feeling it. Lebanese have a way of dealing with crises like no others. During the Civil War (1975-1989) they had it all — bloody fights among themselves, and between regional factions. They lost almost every civic service and privilege and went back to the "Stone Age". In the absence of a government, militias ruled the ground and gangs ran the streets. However, unlike in similar situations, like in Bosnia, Libya and Iraq, people managed to live two different lives: The miserable life of war-torn nation, and the lively life of fun-loving cities. Under destroyed hotels and in the basements of rundown office towers and residential buildings, Lebanese danced and dined their nights. If electricity generators were not available, candles were used to lighten up life and enjoy what is left of it. Even adversaries would join hands in traditional "dabka" dance — like they haven't fought that very morning! Today, the tradition continues. Watching shouting arguments on TV might give you the wrong idea! Yes, they have all kind of political disagreements. They may shout at each other in rallies, discussion forums and the media. But then they come together to celebrate someone's wedding or birthday in hugs, laughter and smiles. It looks like all they went through before were sport games. In malls, cinemas, cafes, and shops, I met with intellectuals representing different ethnicities, religions, sects, and political parties. In the first night, I had a refreshing and enriching talk with a communist, a Shiite, a Sunni and a couple of Christians, some of them supported Hezbollah, others were against it. During hours of long, sometimes heated, discussions, we agreed and disagreed, but we learned from each other. Talk was so frank but so understanding of each other's different position. Never once, anyone crossed the line of respect and civility. There was always hunger to know more of the other's position, and curiosity to learn why and how they came to that position. At the end of the night, we made plans for other meetings, exchanged greetings and went homes (or hotels) fulfilled and satisfied. I don't know of many places in the world were you can have such agreement to disagreement, except in sophisticated, civilized, liberal academic environments, like the School of Journalism and Mass Communication, in Oregon University, where my best classmate was a wonderful mind, a Canadian communist Jew (with a converted Muslim mother)! Friends were worried when I accepted Almayadeen Channel to join a discussion group in the top-rated "Nations Game" program, hosted by a leading author and highly respected media host, Sami Kleib. Since I have been so critical of Iran and its agent in Lebanon, Hezbollah, some Saudi friends felt I would be on dangerous grounds. I knew better! Beirut, for those who haven't visited, is a city with different districts. Some areas have more inhabitants from one sect than others. The eastern district, for example, is mostly Christian. The western is mostly Sunni. The Shiites, on the other hand, live, mostly, in the southern district. But there is no entrances or divides. You could be going down the same street, crossing from one part to the other. A clue to where you arrived could be found in the billboards and walls. An array of pictures of political leaders, such as Saad Al-Hariri, Mossa Al-Sadr or Hassan Nasrallah, with political slogans, may indicate you are in their constituencies. Security and civic services levels are higher than you may expect in a country with a transitional government drawn from disagreeing parties. Unlike Baghdad, for example, here you may walk in a quite downtown street feeling as safe as it can be. Streets, markets, restaurants and hotels are lively, busy and well maintained and serviced. Summer, in Beirut, is as lovely as you would expect — almost. Taxi drivers and other service providers do miss Gulf tourists. "They are the most generous!," says my driver. Europeans, Americans, and Turks, are fewer than in better times. But all in all, Beirut is still one of the most beautiful, lively and engaging cities in the world. And the secret to that is —Lebanese! Dr. Khaled M. Batarfi is a Saudi writer based in Jeddah. He can be reached at [email protected]. Follow him at Twitter:@kbatarfi
