The Lebanese guard at a main entrance to Al-Najma plaza in Soldier, Beirut, was depressingly sad as he told us that we cannot enter the famous district. He explained to my wife and me that the whole area has been shut down to business and visitors a year ago for security reasons. "But this is the main tourist attraction rebuilt after it was totally destroyed in the 15-years Civil War (1975-1990) by late Prime Minister Rafik Hariri. It took years of hard work and billions of dollars to build, and is owned by a public company (Solidere)! How could it be closed for so long, and what happened to the many restaurants, cafes, offices and shops?" my wife asked. "They all moved out!" came the answer. "As you know the area is too close to the parliament and is surrounded by sensitive government ministries and departments. After a series of bombings in Beirut, it was decided that the whole area should be closed down," the man explained. "But this would badly affect business and tourism," I argued. "What business? What tourism? Look around you! This area is supposed to be downtown Beirut. Does it look so?" He pointed to the slow traffic and movement in the streets and shops on the other side of where we stood. "Most businesses and restaurants in Solidere moved to that side, but they may soon close down, too. They are not making enough money to survive the downturn. "After the bombings, the demonstrations and other security concerns, not even Lebanese are coming out to shop and entertain — not even on weekends. Saudi, GCC tourists and Lebanese abroad are rarely visiting the country. They now go to Turkey, UAE and other safer countries in the region. Why would they take their families to trouble zones? Only Iraqis and Syrians are visiting now, but mostly as refugees. Business has not been this down since the Civil War," the guard concluded. My wife admired Lebanon, as much as I did, and had visited Beirut a few years ago, when tourism was thriving and Solidere was so popular that her family would wait for cafe patrons to leave before they got a table. She prayed, "Hope all of this passes away soon. Lebanon was the Switzerland of the East. It has always been an oasis of democracy, free speech and high lifestyle. Rich and poor — people of all tastes and needs found refuge in its heavens. We need Lebanon back. No place in Earth can takes its place in our hearts and minds." The man shot back, "We don't care to be any Switzerland, now. We don't care for the image of a European country or to have many of life luxuries. We just need our basics — to be left alone, to be separated from regional conflicts, to live in peace!" It was our first day in Beirut — a Wednesday. We chose not to accept this depressing image. Lebanese had managed to dance their way through the hell of the Civil War. They are too resourceful and spirited to allow the recent setbacks to hold them down. We were right. On Thursday, we took off to Faria, on the 2,465m-high, 50km-away Lebanon Mountain, for skiing. Even though it wasn't a weekend, yet, we enjoyed the usual top professional and friendly service. Many others shared our experience from Kuwait, Egypt, Turkey, Iraq, as well as US and Europe. Most were local families, though. They came to enjoy their national beauties and treasures. Life was as normal, if quieter, as I always experienced it there. Back to Beirut, back to politics. My friends in the media, government and business, explained to us, each in his own way, why Lebanon is not thriving. "We live in a rough neighborhood. Our politicians get their cues not from the public that voted them in, but from Arab and foreign masters. Some play constructive roles, like your country, some seed conflict, like Iran," said a journalist. A businessman showed more optimism, "With no president, united government or parliament, you may expect a failed state! Still, you get a reasonable public and private service and security is not bad." But no one denies that fear is permeating the air. Iran and its stooge, Hezbollah, is a dark force strangling the country. Without their cooperation, elections have been on hold, tension is high with Israel and competing terrorists, and relations are strained with the Arab world. As a result, the environment is less welcoming for tourists and investors. Lebanon needs a break from interference, but especially so from Iran and company. Arabs and the world community must help. Dr. Khaled M. Batarfi is a Saudi writer based in Jeddah. He can be reached at [email protected]. Follow him at Twitter:@kbatarfi
