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Coya — A Peruvian Delicacy
Published in The Saudi Gazette on 30 - 07 - 2016

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Mariam Nihal
Situated off Jumeirah Beach road at the Four Seasons hotel, Coya is one of the most popular places in town. But every new restaurant in Dubai is born a superstar and most don't outlive the hype. This was precisely the reason we chose to check out the hot spot. Coya is predominantly known for its steaks and exotic Peruvian flavors. But what really should be part of that conversation is the location and stunning interiors. Opulent settings, with a splash of nature and graffiti, the place is set out in planned areas, segregated by the lobby, smoking area, separate seating area by the open kitchen and the members club with beautiful furnishing. While on one hand you have an extravagant vintage sofa engulfed by bespoke furnishings, on the other hand Coya's contemporary soul comes alive with street art using graffiti splashed across one of the walls in the members lounge.
Word is, its a happening place by night but the afternoons are quite chilled. So during lunch its not a full house, not even at half its capacity. Part of the reason you get seated at the members club is to fill that void. Regardless, the brightly sun lit interiors reflect positive energy with soulful music in the background and a lively ambiance. The overall character is overwhelming for a restaurant that casually calls itself a ‘contemporary' as opposed to its fine dining attitude. The staff is courteous and genuinely makes an effort to ensure you're having a good time. We started with the guacamole and crackers as an appetizer. Your host prepares this at your table using fresh avocados with lemon and tobasco. The rest of the menu can be a horror for vegans but for meat lovers this is some great stuff. Try the tender and juicy ‘Tradicional' Ox heart. This is definitely a delicacy and not for the faint hearted. If you have a problem with red meat, its best to avoid this and go for a juicy mini chicken tacos portion instead. If you enjoy seafood, the recommended option was the seabass with rice, which is more like risotto. However they will ask you if they can mix the portion for you, which will only make it a gooey mess. Avoid that and enjoy the fish on its own. For steak lovers, Solomillo de Res- the spicy beef fillet is the popular choice. Now it is juicy and bursting with flavors, but definitely not spicy as per the description and a bit non-traditional for steak.
Definitely get a portion of Patatas Bravas a la Peruana- the crispy potatoes with spicy tomatoes and huancaina sauce as an alternative to french fries of mash potatoes on the side. Coya has an in house mixologist, who creates refreshing drinks and that is much needed when it's 45 degrees Celsius out there.
Dessert is a must, if you have a sweet tooth. Top it off with the salted caramel ganache which is served with home made raspberry sorbet and candied orange. There was nothing conventional about desserts either, so I decided to play it safe, with a scoop of dark chocolate ice cream which ended up saving the day.
Overall, Coya is definitely a popular destination due to its outlandish appeal, which so far has worked for the brand but there is also a price to pay, starting at SR 570 for their signature menu. For many it is a place to eat your heart out, for others it is just a place to be for Instagram. Either way, Coya is not the obvious choice when picking a regular dinner joint but it is definitely a place for a memorable night out with friends.


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