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Chili's turns the charm on
HIRAH AZHAR
Published in The Saudi Gazette on 12 - 06 - 2011

You just can't go wrong with Chili's iconic Classic Fajita Nachos. (SG photos by Hirah Azhar)I've never quite liked Chili's. I've found its menu overpriced, the food bland and too fattening and the service either indifferent or nauseatingly intrusive (the latter is worse).
But there are some things you just can't deny about Chili's. Like the fact that it is still one of Jeddah's most popular restaurants, hands down. Or that their Classic Fajita Nachos are a brand of their own, designed to reduce sane, objective adults to gibbering, drooling children. Or even that in a city obsessed with food and expanding to accommodate growing numbers of restaurants and branches along with growing waistlines, Chili's is actually a rather decent all-rounder.
It is for the last reason, in particular, that I decided to pay Chili's a visit en famille. We went to the Chili's in the Al-Hamra district on a Thursday, fully expecting to have to wait in a queue, but surprisingly, were ushered in immediately and to a table close to the kitchen.
Chili's has been around for more than 35 years now. It first opened in Dallas, Texas in 1975 and now has branches in all 50 US states and 30 international locations. It has been around in Jeddah itself for well over a decade.
The decor is of the classic diner variety. If you visit Chili's at night, you are expected to dine in the semi-dark. I could hardly read the menu, even though we were sat at a table with a lamp hanging overhead. It is presumably worse for those sitting in booths. I suspect most diners already know what they want to order, but for the rest of us, it's probably best to sit outdoors.
Having said that, the low lights make the whole dining experience much more cozier and therefore enjoyable. What you lose visually, you gain aesthetically, and it is a good place to wind down in after a long day at work. The experience certainly isn't half as enjoyable during the day.
But I'm digressing. Who goes to Chili's to read the menu or check out the ambience? It is all about the food from start to finish. As a family, we are prone to sharing dishes at other diners like T.G.I. Fridays simply because the portions are too huge and everyone enjoys the appetizers too much to cut down on those. At Chili's, we seem to have temporarily lost our minds and went for the Classic Fajita Nachos (SR40) and Fried Cheese (SR28) as appetizers followed by individual meals. Chili's revamped menu meant that all of us wanted to eat something different but agreed that we absolutely had to order the nachos and fried cheese.
There is no sensible reason for why those nachos are so, so good. Every single culinary sin the franchise has ever committed should be forgiven for those nachos. Crispy tortilla chips topped with cheese, chicken, jalapeno peppers, sour cream, shredded lettuce and diced tomato makes the whole dish heavenly and perhaps the one thing that lifts Chili's well above its competition. We tried the Fried Cheese for the first time and though it was the usual breaded, mozzarella sticks, the texture of both the batter and the cheese was wonderful. Exactly the sort of crunchy and soft combination you look for in an appetizer.
So much attention is paid to drinks in Chili's, that they provide a separate menu for it. If you're visiting the diner for the first time, it is almost impossible to decide what to order. The “special” drinks are expensive at about SR17-18, but some of them are well worth it. We ordered two: a Mango Margarita and Pina Colada and the difference between the two is something that indicates why some people adore the diner and others detest it. The Pina Colada was superb. A tantalizing and creamy mixture of coconut and pineapple, the drink is almost irresistibly good. The Mango Margarita, conversely, has to be one of the worst drinks I have ever tasted. And this from a franchise that touts its margaritas as one of its best sellers. I suspect that the attempt to diversify the range of margaritas they offer means that some of them may be delicious, but others will inevitably disappoint. The mango version was one of them. Consisting of frozen mango pulp and a too-tangy, too-sweet combination of juice does nothing to refresh the consumer.
For the main course, we ordered a Mushroom Jack Fajita Combo (SR64), Country Fried Chicken (SR44), Cajun Chicken sandwich (SR36) and Chicken Ranch burger (SR36). Seasoned Chili's fans must be shaking their heads right about now. It is a commonly known fact that the portions at Chili's will be huge. It is also expected that you will go for items Chili's is better known for, like its steaks, tortillas or fajitas. As I said, we were fooled by the revamped menu, but that kind of went in our favor. The chicken burgers, served with fries on the side, were very good and almost comparable to the fare at Fuddruckers. The Cajun sandwich, for example, was topped with crispy onion rings, which managed to retain their crispiness but were just soft enough to bite through and the Ranch burger was tangy and spicy, which will definitely appeal to those looking for a proper chili fix. The Country Fried Chicken was a revelation in itself. Offering a delectable combination of crispy, but juicy, fried chicken topped with a thick, creamy pepper sauce, a simple corn-on-the-cob, perfect mashed potatoes and toasted bread on the side, the dish is designed for those seeking a wholesome meal. A combination of chicken and beef fajitas, topped with cheese and mushrooms and served on the side with trademark flour tortillas, sour cream, guacamole, lettuce, cheese and tomatoes, the Mushroom Jack fajitas are a no-brainer really.
All in all, the food at Chili's is really, really good. You can't go wrong with it. Of course, it's also rather expensive when you think about it, but the prices are only slightly higher than its immediate competitors. I thought the burgers were rather reasonably-priced and the Country Fried Chicken can easily serve two people, which at SR44, is a bargain. It is also rather high in fat unless you go for their low-calorie items.
Perhaps most importantly, the customer service is flawless. We asked for some of our food to be packed up and our waiter forgot to pack an item. We realized this when we got home and immediately called the diner up. After some initial yes-no confusion, we were asked to return to the restaurant where an entirely new version of that item, as well as profuse apologies, had been prepared for us. That was a great example of customer service and along with the food, a solid reason for me to visit Chili's again.


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