I'M forever looking for new ways to cook soft-shell crabs. So when the splendid Los Angeles chef and radio host Evan Kleiman mentioned to me that she served soft-shells on top of pasta, I thought, “Yes, well, that's obvious enough - once a good cook (...)
This is a story about hedging bets, about taking advantage of some old-fashioned barbecue techniques, and about the heartbreak of holidays.
It grows out of my permanent desire to see the end-of-May holiday as a start-of-grilling-season holiday, (...)
Back in the early ‘80s, when I had just begun to write about cooking, I used to hang around in the kitchen of a man named Peter Chang. Chang ran a one-man-show of a Chinese restaurant in New Haven, Conn., and was kind and patient enough to teach me (...)
