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Shandur Polo Festival takes you to new heights
Saudi Gazette report
Published in The Saudi Gazette on 28 - 07 - 2010

Shandur is the highest polo field on earth. Shandur Pass is situated along the border of Gilgit-Baltistan and Khyber Pukhtunkhwa in Pakistan at a distance of 147km from Chitral and 212km from Gilgit. The pass not only connects Gilgit and Chitral but also offers one of the world's most interesting and attractive sports annually – freestyle mountain polo. The game is played on the ‘Roof of the World', about 12,500 feet above sea level approximately, where the Hindukush, Pamir and Karakoram ranges meet.
The rugged Mountain Polo is arguably polo in its purest form. This version of the game played at Shandur has attained legendary status and is of great interest to international and domestic adventure tourists alike. There are no umpires and there are no holds barred. The rules are: There are no rules!
Historically, polo - called the “king of games” - was played between small kingdoms, villages and rival groups of Gilgit and Chitral. From 1936 onwards, polo tournaments were held annually on this ground. The three-day Shandur Polo Festival has developed steadily in recent years into the massive celebration of mountain polo that it is today. It is attended every year by prominent celebrities and public figures.
Tourists have an option to reach Chitral and Gilgit via air or road. Pakistan's national carrier PIA operates daily flights from Islamabad to Gilgit and Chitral also form Peshawar to Chitral. These are subject to weather and the flight time is 40 to 55 minutes. Overland via Lowari Pass in Chitral takes about 8-9 hours by a jeep or coaster. From Chitral to Shandur the road is accessible with a jeep and takes another 5-6 hours. From Gilgit to Shandur it takes seven hours by bus while a landcruiser takes six hours. Those who make the effort are rewarded by a once in a lifetime experience, spectacular scenery and the certain knowledge that they are among a very few outsiders ever to experience one of the world's most dramatic regions.
A special camping village is set up during the polo festival near the playing ground. Mess facilities and toilets are also available. Some backpackers prefer to bring their own tents and sleeping bags. Tourists are advised to bring along comfortable walking shoes and warm clothes, as evenings can become chilly. For sun protection - a cap, shades and a sun block (preferably with a high SPF) are recommended. Keep canned food, dry fruits and bottled water for convenience and a flashlight and radio to give you company.
Shandur Polo Festival 2010
This year's Shandur Polo Festival 2010 was dedicated to the memory of Pakistani infantrymen who were killed in action. In order to decide the final teams to play at the Shandur Polo Festival, preliminary matches are played both in Chitral and Gilgit in which the best horses and players are chosen for the final games by the local juries.
The festival kicked off July 7 with a polo match between Laspur Team, which is a village near Shandur in Chitral, and the Ghizer Team from Gilgit. During the festival the A, B, C and D teams of Chitral and Gilgit shall battle it out on the polo field. Each team had six members with 2-4 reserve players incase of injury etc. The match is divided into two halves, with a 10 minute interval. During intervals the locals enthrall the audiences with traditional and cultural performances. The game is won by the team scoring nine goals.
The final day of the festival began with a guard of honor by the Chitral Scouts, after which the final was played between the traditional rivals Chitral A and Gilgit A. Apart from the polo matches, other activities included during the festival are: traditional and cultural performances, paragliding, horse racing and Tampuk Bazi (a traditional game), scintillating fireworks and a bonfire to warm up the chilly Shandur nights. After the festival, tourists can visit the valley of Chitral Mastuj, Boni and Kalash valleys and on the Gilgit-Baltistan side: Phunder, Gupis, Yasin and Ishkoman valley, Gakuch Gilgit, Hunza, Skarud and enjoy the centuries old culture there.
Game of Kings
Polo is truly the ‘Game of Kings' in the Northern areas of Pakistan. It is said that polo originated in Iran, but took its roots in the Northern Areas of Pakistan – Gilgit, Skardu, Hunza and Chitral. The ruling families of Hunza, Nagar and Gilgit, whose forefathers were from Persia, did much to promote the game and the polo teams of Nagar and Punial were considered to be the best in NWFP till the 1970s.
The local tribes of the northern valleys Chitral, Gilgit, Baltistan, and Hunza, have an overriding passion for polo; it runs in their blood, and they still play it in its pure form. Polo had always been a favorite with the ancient rulers of the East. The British discovered the game in Gilgit in the 1850's and adapted it into its present from which brings us to some basic differences between the rules that govern the game in Northern Pakistan and elsewhere. During the Mughal period, polo was a game patronized by Nawabs, Rajas and Princes. But even to the most casual observer it is obvious that the Gilgiti Version is a people's game. Every maneuver and hit is greeted with loud cheers and an over-excited audience yells various instructions.
The first Shandur Polo Tournament was played in 1833. A British political agent Major Cobb, who had the polo ground at Shandur named after himself, organized the first tournament. He was fond of playing the game under the full moon. Since then, polo in Shandur has been a tradition. Adorning their best and most brightly colored costumes the local tribesmen celebrate the polo festival with folk dance and music. Ancient Persian artists depicted polo as an equestrian ballet and even today, local polo players are also very good dancers.
The scenery here is in keeping with the breathtaking fury of the game. The famous Shandur Top overlooks the scenic Shandur Lake, encompassed by towering snowcapped mountains.
Information courtesy of Tourism Information Services Pakistan Ltd.
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