Postwar societies, no matter how peaceful or picturesque on the surface, are inevitably complex places that still bear the scars of war, though some less overtly than others. Sri Lanka is no different. Visitors will discover a tropical island teeming with exotic wildlife, white beaches and stylish boutique hotels. Yet they will also find internment camps, military checkpoints and a government accused by watchdog groups of undermining democratic principles as it tightens its grip on power. Such are the inconveniences of visiting a postwar country like Sri Lanka. I traveled there last October with fresh memories of what had befallen this teardrop-shaped island off India: a brutal decades-long conflict between the Sinhalese majority government and a band of separatist rebels called the Tamil Tigers. Remnants of the war can be found practically around every corner. As our van sped along, I spotted rows of abandoned huts lining the road, which my Tamil driver said were used by snipers. In Trincomalee, a busy port in the northeast, fishermen with missing appendages hawked the day's catch. Conversations with locals almost inevitably drift back to war. In recent months, tourism has steadily inched upward from past years, thanks to efforts by the government and local entrepreneurs to redevelop the eastern coast and to build an airport down south near Hambantota. The tourism ministry has also begun a “Visit Sri Lanka 2011” public relations blitz to rebrand itself after the war. Sri Lanka has always held a fascination among wayward foreigners. Long after Marco Polo stumbled onto its palm-fringed shores, the British futurist Arthur C. Clarke made Sri Lanka his adopted home to gaze up at the universe. Some literary historians suspect “Robinson Crusoe” was inspired by the island's remoteness. Real-life castaways — Aussie filmmakers, German graphic designers — are relocating here to snap up centuries-old homes and convert them into attractive spaces that blur the line between modern art gallery and Moorish guesthouse, fusing colonial décor with Asian motifs. But it is the country's tranquil beauty that draws most visitors. “You don't need to do a great deal to have the good life here,” said Ivan Robinson, a British real estate developer who refurbished a colonial manor in the south. “The rivers are full of fish. Fruit falls off trees.” Water buffalo graze beside Buddhist stupas. Elephants roam freely. And innkeepers warn guests to keep their windows closed to avoid pickpockets — not people, but monkeys swinging from the trees. Then there are Sri Lanka's famed beaches, crescent-shaped coves of white sand framed by colorful bungalows and bamboo groves. An unintended consequence of the war is the coastline's lack of development. You can stroll past beat-up outrigger boats, which look like showpieces from a maritime museum, and past fishermen on wooden stilts. Or hike inland to discover hideaway guesthouses carved from old gem merchants' homes, with mango gardens and infinity pools tucked into their courtyards. It is the southern town of Galle that is the coast's biggest draw. The city feels more European than South Asian, owing to the fact that its center — a jumble of quaint gem shops, cafes and guesthouses — sits within the weather-beaten walls of a Dutch-built fort. After dining on crab cakes in the colonial Galle Fort Hotel, stop by the ramparts to watch kids dive Acapulco-style into the Indian Ocean. High up in Sri Lanka's hill country, the feeling is more authentic, less touristy. To get there, hop on the train that rattles past rain forests, tea plantations and elephant orphanages. The final stop is Kandy. Swing by Kandy's botanical gardens before checking out the Heritance Kandalama Hotel, about 90 minutes north of town. Designed by Geoffrey Bawa, a native son, the hotel sits on the edge of a cliff, camouflaged in a thick coat of jungle foliage. Another showcase of the island's architectural renaissance is Kandy House, a 400-year-old manor converted into a boutique hotel furnished with antiques and arched verandas. Even Colombo, the gritty capital, is getting a makeover, with Bohemian cafes and flamboyant nightclubs now tucked within its high-rise hotels. Aid workers and diplomats converge at the Gallery Café, a chic fusion restaurant that doubles as an art gallery. But the best place to soak up the colonial-meets-tropical vibe of Colombo is from the ocean-facing garden of the stately Galle Face Hotel. Where to stay Hotel rates are commonly given in US dollars. The grande dame of Colombo's colonial hotels is the Galle Face Hotel (2 Galle Road; 94-11-2541010; www.gallefacehotel.com), with a pool and a sea-facing breakfast buffet; doubles from $81. For something a little hipper, check out Casa Colombo (231 Galle Road; 94-11-4520130; casacolombo.com), which offers 12 smartly designed suites starting at $175. In Galle the Galle Fort Hotel (28 Church Street; 94-91-2232870; galleforthotel.com) has no ocean-facing views but is worth the price (rooms start at $120). In Unawatuna, located a few miles south of the fort, the Ridee Villa (321 Peellagoda; 94-91-2224256; rideevilla.com) is a cozy guesthouse in a converted gem shop decorated with exotic sculptures. Doubles start at $35. In Kandy, most of the hotels near the center need renovation. A better bet is to head out of town to Kandy House (94-814-921394; thekandyhouse.com); rooms start at $230.
