Genteel Edinburgh would never want to boast — but its tea, scones and palatial history is every bit as enthralling as London's — and can be had for a fraction of the price and at a much more leisurely pace. As a bonus, this Georgian gem is small and endlessly walkable with history along every cobblestone street. Getting around Walking is the best way to see Edinburgh. With streets like the Royal Mile, which stretches from the Palace of Holyroodhouse to Edinburgh Castle, tourists can amble from site to site and soak up the history along the way. The castle, perched high, is a good landmark for finding your way, viewable from many points within the city. The terrain is hilly. After all, the 100-square-mile city is built on volcanic crags. It's easy to get lost among the winding streets and alleyways, but that's all part of Edinburgh's charm. If you want to learn some history on your travels, check out Edinburgh Bus tours. Day passes can be bought outside Waverly Rail Station starting at $25 (15 pounds) for all four lines, or two days plus a boat cruise along the Firth of Forth for $40 (24 pounds). Historic sites and museums Edinburgh's central area is so rich in history that it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The organization cited the architecture and juxtaposition of the Old Town, which dates to medieval times, with winding streets and alleys, and the New Town, steeped in stately Georgian architecture. Start your visit at Edinburgh Castle, which defines the city's skyline. It's at one end of the Royal Mile, a touristy stretch that leads past museums, shops and churches to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official residence of the Queen when she visits Scotland. Entry to the castle starts at $21.70 (13 pounds). Play around with the old cannons, look into Medieval churches, see exhibits on Scotland's royal history and the crown jewels, and soak up views of the city from on high. Don't miss the 1 P.M. cannon blast. Then head east on the Royal Mile and you can see how Britain's monarchy lives in modern times by touring the Palace of Holyroodhouse. It's open to the public as long as Queen Elizabeth is not visiting. The $16.70 (10 pound) tour fee includes an audio tour that takes you around the castle, the abbey and gardens, sharing insights like how Mary Queen of Scots' secretary and possible lover was murdered by her husband. The National Museum of Scotland has free guided tours and audio headsets. Visitors learn about Scotland's history from the clan feuds on, and see the Runic alphabet in use, along with artwork dating to modern day. Next door is the Royal Museum of Scotland, a Venetian palace that houses collections of natural history. Both museums are free. Away from downtown, along the port of Leith, check out the queen's newly retired yacht, Britannia. It offers a look at how the royal family traveled at sea for decades until the boat was retired in 1997. You also get excellent views of the Forth Railway Bridge, a feat of Victorian engineering that is considered the world's first major steel bridge. Entertainment UNESCO has declared Edinburgh a “city of literature.” Home to Scotland's favorite son, poet Robert Burns, it's also where Sir Arthur Conan Doyle found inspiration to create Sherlock Holmes and where J.K. Rowling started writing her Harry Potter series. Try a literary pub tour for about $14 (8.50 pounds) or go it alone with a free literary tour podcast: http://tinyurl.com/npakpm. The Scottish International Storytelling Festival is scheduled for Oct. 23-Nov. 1, a fiddle festival is planned for November and Edinburgh's winter wonderland sets up in the Princes Street Gardens with a market and ice rink in the weeks before Christmas. Lodging Decent accommodations can be had without spending a fortune. I stayed at the Grassmarket hotel near the Royal Mile in peak summer and after hunting online for a deal, got it for $79 a night (48 pounds), with private bath.
