ON my return to Jeddah after a long summer in London, one thing I have always missed is my collection of favorite cafés. However, I have recently been very pleasantly surprised with what is available along Prince Sultan Street, near where I live. This area offered little more than desert when we first came here in 1984. My daily café cappuccino now looks like becoming a distinct possibility – if only it weren't for the SR.40 limousine roundtrip fare making it rather an expensive luxury! Ladies and Family Sections are no longer round the back of café and restaurant buildings, dismal and clastrophobic. They now have a more welcoming feel to them, and ladies and families are rightly recognised as major players in the customer base. The large, open food halls in shopping malls have also changed into what is perceived as acceptable in Saudi society in terms of privacy. Another very welcome progression is the much higher standard of washroom and toilet facilities, bringing the overall standards well into the 21st Century. Driving from the southern end of Prince Sultan Street (i.e. from Tahlia Street, heading northwards), the first Café on my list is Café Larissa. It is located in a small, smart parade of shops on the left hand side, between the junctions of Rawdah Street and Al Kayyal Street, close to the Naft fuel station, and there is ample parking. Café Larissa opened in December 2006 and a great advantage is that it is open all day, from 9 a.m. to 11.30 p.m. It is predominantly a “Patisserie and Chocolaterie” (in English, that is a chocolate and pastry shop) as well as being a bakery, so the downstairs is completely taken up with glass cabinet displays of these goodies. There is no space for a Singles Section, but there is a comfortable Family Section on a galleried floor, up a long flight of black marble steps. The walls and ceiling are lined with a thin layer of what appears to be back-lit marble, making the lighting warm and soft. I particularly liked the open feeling and the view into the street through the big clear glass windows – usually, in family sections, the glass is frosted. They have a comprehensive menu covering Breakfast, Soups & Appetizers, Salads, Pasta & Main Dishes, Sandwiches, Afternoon Tea, an ample selection of Teas & Coffees, and a mouth-watering list of their speciality Hot Chocolate beverages described as “Thick, Smooth & Luscious” (think of the film “Chocolat” where Juliette Binoche serves up rich, dark, mugs of the stuff!) Prices are also reasonable - Fresh Spinach Lasagna SR.33, Beef Fillet Forestiere SR.55, Caesar Salad SR.19, Cappuccino SR.11, Hot Chocolate SR.17). I went there with a friend and her two young boys for Breakfast and we both ordered their “Three Egg Omelet” which, according to the menu, was served with Hash Brown Potatoes and Fresh Asparagus. When it arrived, it was served with salad, no Hash Browns or asparagus. We requested the missing items, which eventually arrived, but both were cold – and so were sent back to be heated up. We had also ordered the Morning Griddle Pancakes with Chocolate Sauce and Maple Syrup for the boys, and these were excellent – but I think the Chocolate Sauce wasn't home- made and have a sneaky suspicion it was Nutella! The Hot Chocolate was definitely home-made: it was thick, rich and delicious. The Cappuccino was excellent too and served in a large china cup and saucer. The staff (who were very pleasant and cheerful) were apparently new and although we enjoyed the comfort and atmosphere of Café Larissa, more training was required in the kitchen. Designer Ladies and Gents washrooms are also on the same upstairs level. Next on the list, a little further north along Prince Sultan Street and past the “Fist” monument, is Deli France. It is located on the right hand side, on the far corner of the Salaama Center, opposite Language Studies International. There are outside tables and chairs, and the indoor Singles Section is at the front, downstairs. The Family Entrance is just around the corner, and up two flights of stairs. Just inside this entrance, there is also a small downstairs family corner with two tables for those who are unable to manage the stairs as there is no lift. The entrance to the smart ladies washroom is located here too. (I have a thing about mentioning “Washrooms” because for so many years in Jeddah, it was impossible to find any decent ones, if at all.) Deli France already has quite a name for itself and is a popular Café. As well as its eat-in areas, it has a large retail counter with a huge variety of cakes, pastries, sandwich fillings, and white and brown bread, all made in their own bakery. For those who are calorie-counting, they have mini pastries and croissants. Their main menu covers eating in, as well as Take-Away, and has a healthy selection of salads, pastas, soups, appetisers, full main courses, and sandwiches made with their own freshly baked bread. Complementing the food is an ample selection of hot and cold beverages with speciality Fresh Cocktails. The windows of the Family Section are frosted and so there is no view of the outside world. It must be a western trait, the desire to have a “view”, whereas in Saudi Arabia, privacy is the important element. There are cubicles and screens for those who want extra privacy. We wanted a light lunch and both chose the Traditional Onion Soup, which is beautifully served in a large, scooped out bread bun. It tasted as good as it looked. I also tried their “Paradise” Cocktail, a truly delicious blend of milk, dates and Vanilla – more like a liquid desert than a cocktail. An additional bonus in Deli France is that there is free Wi-Fi internet connection, and they are open all day from 7 a.m. to 1 a.m. The Caspar & Gambini's Café in the Sultan Mall was my next “find”. Still travelling north along Prince Sultan Street, you reach the ship and aeroplane roundabout. On the far left hand corner is the Sultan Mall. To access it, you must continue driving north, and then make a U-Turn and get into the slip road. Unlike the main restaurant located on Andalus Street, this branch of Caspers is just a café stall. The opening hours are from 9 a.m. to half past mid-night. It is on the first floor of this huge mall and is mercifully well away from the rumpus of the main open food hall. It has its own spacious area, overlooking the huge windows that look out over the car park and street, giving a sense of space and light. There are discretely designated Singles and Family Areas, but nothing is screened off. Their menu is limited to sandwiches (which can be toasted) made with their delicious bread, brought from the main restaurant, and a few salads and pastries, and various coffees, teas, and choice of two fresh fruit juices: carrot or orange. The Café provides newspapers, a choice of comfortable cushioned seats or more basic dining chairs. After walking miles around the Mall, it is a peaceful spot to take a break and plan your next purchase – I saw some gorgeous evening dresses not too far from the Café …!
