There is no mystery as to why the Alhambra has been enchanting visitors ever since the Nasrid emirs of Granada, the last Muslim rulers of Spain, made it their residence in the 13th century A.D. The complex, a fortress, palace, garden and government town in one, attracts millions of visitors year after year. Here's what you need to know about this marvel, and why you should not forget about the rest of Granada, the city the Alhambra is located in, either. Literally “the red one” – perhaps so-called after the red clay the complex is built of – the Alhambra was originally created for military purposes back in the 9th century, when Granada – in that time known as Elvira – still belonged to the Caliphate of Córdoba. Two centuries later, a civil war ended the caliphate and the Berber general Ziri ibn Manad established a new kingdom on the hill next to Elvira that was known under the Arabs as Gárnata, present-day Albaicín, one of the must-see neigborhoods in Granada. It was not until the 13th century that Ibn Nasr, the founder of the Nasrid Dynasty, decided to transform the fort into a palace and government town including lush gardens with water features and settle there. Following the defeat of the last Muslim stronghold in 1492, Granada and the Alhambra became part of the Catholic kingdom. The subsequent centuries saw various additions to the complex, such as a church and Franciscan monastery. Carlos I (also known under his Habsburg title Charles V) even destroyed an entire wing of the Alhambra to make room for his Renaissance palace, now home to the Alhambra Museum and the Museo de las Bellas Artes (Fine Arts Museum). The structure reached its nadir when Napoleon used it as barracks for his troops that led to the demolishing of two towers. The neglect continued until in 1870 it was declared a national monument. A classic example of Islamic architecture, a visit to the Alhambra should be on any Muslim's wish list. But the structure does not entice Muslims alone; people from all over the world marvel by the sight of the harmonious architecture and serene gardens. Intriguing mosaics, colorful tiles, precious sculpted wood, white marble columns, and highly decorative ceilings create a feast to the eye without being too overpowering. Complicated hydraulic systems provided its inhabitants with hot and cold running water as well as pressurized water for showering. In the Patio de los Leones (Lions' Court) the Fountain of Lions depicts 12 lions in white marble that one by one produced water every hour. The dynasty that created this engineering feat was a highly sophisticated one, it is clear. Just outside the Alhambra are the gardens of Generalife, like the former a Unesco-enlisted heritage site, that were used by the Nasrid emirs as their rural residence. These gardens could come closest to paradise on earth with their peaceful fountains and pools, plants and flowers, pathways and patios, harmonious architecture, as well as cool shade. However, what makes the Alhambra even more spectacular is its surroundings. Located on a hill against the backdrop of the snowcapped “Sierra Nevada” mountains, the entire complex can be fully appreciated by visiting the Albaicín and/or Sacromonte neighborhoods. Albaicín Even if it did not offer splendid views of the Alhambra complex and surrounding mountains would the neighborhood of Albaicín alone be well worth a visit to Granada. The original Arab quarter, built on another hill above Granada's center, was once the location of the royal seat of the Zirid dynasty, and even during the Middle Ages did it serve as a Muslim Quarter. Today, it is a popular spot for tourists and locals, who come to get lost in the windy cobblestoned streets and alleys, marvel at the whitewashed houses, gather for a drink and tapas, and – most importantly –get a glimpse of the Alhambra around sunset. The best spot to do the latter is at Mirador San Nicolás. The throngs of people and occasional signage will tell you where to go. Around dusk it gets very crowded though; if you prefer a quieter spot to watch the Alhambra light up in a warm red glow enter the modern mosque, the “Mezquita Mayor” right next to it. The views are just as stunning as from San Nicolás, but without the pickpockets and noise. Sacromonte Albeit slightly farther from the town center, another interesting place to visit is Sacromonte, a neighborhood located on Valparaíso hill and inhabited by the Spanish Gypsy population, many of which live in whitewashed caves cut into the rock. Like Albaicín, this neighborhood offers spectacular views of the Alhambra, but it is most famous for its flamenco shows. Granada center Descending from Albaicín you will get to Calle Galderería Nueva, a lively street that is reminiscent of a North African souq including teterías (Moorish tearooms), shisha places, and small shops that sell everything from Berber jewelry to belly dance customs and from slippers to water pipes. Another picturesque street that connects the laid-back Albaicín neighborhood with the more dynamic center is Carrera del Darro, a cobblestoned street along the River Dauro packed with restaurants that leads to Plaza Nueva, one of the town's main squares. You are now in between the hills of Albaicín and the Alhambra and where most of Granada is found, including numerous other attractions. Even in this part of the young and vibrant city can the Arabic influence be seen and felt easily. The Church of Santa Ana, for instance, located at the end of the Plaza Nueva, was built over a mosque, and the original minaret converted into a bell tower. But it is not only the city's monuments that breathe this multicultural character. With approximately 10 percent, Granada has quite a large Muslim population, consisting mainly of Moroccans and other North Africans that opened shops, eateries, and are leaving a new Islamic imprint on the city. Around Granada As if there is not enough to see and do in the city, its location at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountain range offers plenty of activities, from skiing to hiking and biking. At the same time, the seashore is not far either, making a trip to the beach for a swim a very reasonable option, too. When to go? Granada has a fairly mild climate, but summers can get pretty hot, while winters are short but rather cold. The best time of the year is in spring, when most trees are blooming, or in autumn. How to get there Granada has only a small airport that does not serve many places outside Spain. From Saudi Arabia, tourists can fly to Madrid and take a train, bus, or rent a car to travel to Granada. Another option is to fly to Málaga – some airlines offer direct flights throughout the summer months – and travel from there to the city. While a visit to Alhambra is already well worth the journey, even better is to combine it with a tour of Andalusia, the Southern region of Spain where most Islamic influences can be found.
