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UAE brands trying to change esthetics of the Gulf
Published in The Saudi Gazette on 22 - 11 - 2014


Selma Roth
Saudi Gazette


No. 3 Design
The brand may be just two years young, Emirati friends Bushra Badri and Amira Al Khaja were already among the eight brands chosen to show their Spring/Summer 2015 collection for “No. 3 Design” on the catwalk during the Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience. Saudi Gazette spoke to co-founder Badri, who holds a bachelor of science in visual communication from the American University of Sharjah.
“We designed 10 looks that were showcased in Vogue's event. We focused on elements that are very inherent in our culture, a palette that is very earthy, very neutral, and related to the region we're in,” Badri explains. Not surprisingly, No. 3 Design's mantra is “Back to basic.”
The raw colors and minimal designs are an uplifting contrast from the exuberant fashion looks mostly seen in the Gulf and greater Middle East, where the credo “less is more” clearly hasn't landed yet, but how are Badri and Al Khaja winning the hearts of the locals?
“When we first started the brand we were very skeptical about the reaction, but for us it was an experiment. We wanted to see how people would react and if they, eventually, would endorse the esthetic.”
The reality did not disappoint. “There was so much interest in the beginning,” Badri says, admitting that people would not necessarily wear it, but they were curious and thought it was cool.
Slowly, people have started to embrace the designs, and Badri admits that it makes her “so happy to see so many people walking in No. 3's now, whereas in the beginning they were very skeptical.”
She believes the popularity of their brand, called after the multiple of editions in which the garments are designed, is not just about the clothes, but rather about the esthetic message behind them.
The abaya or bisht, as Badri calls it, is a “signature element” in all No. 3 designs. “An idea that we always try to build on is to work with the bisht as an element that is part of a whole, and not something that is worn as a separate [garment].” In other words, Badri and Al Khaja design their abayas with a matching outfit, and the bisht is a signature element in all No. 3 designs.
The abaya may be a garment only worn in certain regions, Badri thinks there is no reason why someone in London couldn't wear one without looking odd: “I always try to build on that concept where people not necessarily from the region can wear the abaya and feel comfortable wearing it, so it doesn't really just have to be black all the time. You can style it the way you want it.”
No. 3 Design's earthy colors have almost become its signature, and it is unlikely their palette would radically change any time soon. “Even if we'd use color we'd use a shade of it that is very toned down, very pale, very dull.” In the S/S 2015 collection, No. 3 used green and blue, but with a greyish undertone. “I think that is No. 3, in the end of the day.”
Madiyah Al Sharqi
Kim Kardashian is not the only one interested in Madiyah Al Sharqi's designs. Feminine, elegant and romantic are three keywords that describe Madiyah Al Sharqi's style.
It is clear this designer from the United Arab Emirates grew up in the midst of opulent chambers and lavish gowns. For the Spring/Summer 2015 collection she showed at the Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience – her sixth and largest collection up to date containing 36 looks –the young designer explored the romantic side of the 1970s, combining beige and khaki colors with tones of lavender and peach.
The designs already got the approval from no one less than Kim Kardashian, who passed by her showroom at the Georges V Hotel during the Paris Fashion Week last September and is said to be wearing the label next year.
“As always, I've been inspired by Marie Antoinette,” Al Sharqi says about her latest collection. Marie Antoinette was the last queen of France and wife of Louis XVI and has been Al Sharqi's muse throughout her collections. “I think she was phenomenal and ahead of her time,” the young designer, who herself is the daughter of the Ruler of Fujairah, HH Sheikh Hamad bin Mohammed Al Sharqi, explains.
“I would always take her to different eras and I would envision her inspired by that era but in our days.”
Al Sharqi's SS2015 collection combines embroidered lace and flowery jacquards with feminine cuts and intricate details, making her gowns the ultimate ballroom or wedding ensemble while some of the shirts and skirts could be worn during the day as well, especially in a city like Dubai.
“Any kind of woman can pull it off,” the princess continues about her collection, “but she has to be a strong woman and not afraid of wearing pastels.”
Nor should she be afraid of wearing different things together, Al Sharqi believes, as this is what her esthetics are all about, whether it is mixing fabrics, lengths, or having a mixed personality that is “soft and flowy” but strong at the same time.
As one of the eight designers showcasing her work on the catwalk at the VFDE, Al Sharqi says she expects the experience will help her in many ways, whether it concerns marketing and merchandise or the creative side of her job. “It makes you aim higher and look forward to the future,” adding her nomination to take part has come totally unexpected.
Al Sharqi's goals have certainly changed with the support she receives from Vogue Italia. “My goal is now to try to enter the international arena. We built a really strong base here in the region and I think my next step is to really try to enter other markets.”


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