JEDDAH — This summer I discovered why countless Saudis and Arab tourists have developed such a passionate fascination with Turkey and only now have I truly understood how a person can have a love affair with a place — with a city like Istanbul. It is a city that seems to be better placed in a dream than in reality because of its mesmerizing contradictions. It is an extremely large city, a busy metropolitan, yet it does not have the tall, shimmery, glass buildings which would interfere with the view of the perfectly blue sky and white cottony clouds and would disrupt any tourist's search for relaxation. It is able to encompass the old historical buildings, traditional Islamic architecture, and historical museums and also provides a modern high-tech metro for ease of getting around. Although peoples of all races, nationalities, codes of dress, and religions are strolling by on the streets, the call for prayer is melodiously announced on loud speakers from the decorative mosques that are seen on almost every street and in every block. The Blue Mosque is a must-see with its impressive large and small domes and six minarets. It has 260 windows, all beautifully glass painted so that the sunlight flooding in becomes a show of an array of different colors. On the inside of the domes, the rounded ceilings are all painted with an intricate mosaic and the dominating color used is blue. It was built in the early 1600s by Sultan Ahmad I. Legend has it that the Sultan said he wanted a mosque with an "Altin (meaning golden in Turkish)" minaret. The architect misheard him as requesting "Alti" minarets, which means six and that is why the Blue Mosque has six minarets. Centuries ago, the Blue Mosque was amid an expansive complex that included a park, hospital, school, and civic center. Today, it is not only a center of attraction but Muslims still pray in the mosque. Women are required to put on a head scarf and both men and women must be modestly dressed in order to enter the Blue Mosque. Since Istanbul served as the capital for Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman empires, it is rich in historical and architectural masterpieces. Hagia Sophia or Aya Sofya holds great meaning and importance for both Christians and Muslims, and it is a work of art that draws awe from all eyes laid on it. Aya Sofya is the fourth biggest cathedral in the world. When Sultan Muhammad Al-Fateh conquered Istanbul, he converted the church into a mosque, built four minarets at the corners of the building, and Muslims used it as a mosque for nearly 500 years. Stepping into the Aya Sofya is in itself a lesson of peace, coexistence, and respect of religions and ethnicity as intended by the great Muslim leaders of the past. The paintings in the Church were left intact, and alongside the Roman paintings on top of the high walls you can see several black plates, with Allah and Muhammad, and the names of the other rightly guided caliphs — one name written in gold on each plate — Abu Bakr, Omar, Othman, and Ali; all equally loved and revered in Islam. Topkapi Palace, resting in grandeur atop a hill, with its breathtaking view of the sea, lush green courtyards, and artistic buildings and rooms elicits emotions of joy and pride in the greatness and success of past Muslim rulers. But it also brings forth tears of despair, sadness, and confusion when one ponders the current plight of suffering, powerless Muslims in different regions of the world, especially in Turkey's close neighbor, Syria. Sultan Muhammad Al-Fateh built Topkapi Palace around the year 1453 as his residence. Afterwards, adjacent to his private courts, he added gardens, the judiciary and executive council, schools, a hospital, bakery, arsenal, and treasury. No other museum in the world is home to the sacred relics of Holy Prophets and righteous companions of the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him). Throughout this section of the museum, a soothing recitation of the Holy Qur'an is read and it has an aroma, a pleasant and musky scent not sensed in any other part of the museum. A hair from the beard of the Prophet Muhammad is treasured in a small glass case, and on display is the Prophet's bow and sword. Visitors can also see the swords of the four rightly guided caliphs. The sword itself speaks volumes of its owner's character. Their swords have no ornaments or gems or jewels on them as that of the later sultans because these four caliphs had no interest in worldly riches; they fought only for the sake of Allah. The swords of Ali and Omar are very large, longer, wider, and thicker which speaks of their bravery, strength, and warrior-like characters whereas the swords of Abu Bakr and Othman are smaller and thinner, reflecting their more gentle character. In addition to the historical sites, Istanbul boasts of natural splendor as well with emerald green parks, flowers and a lovely seaside to take walks on. Even walking in some of the small residential neighborhoods is a charm because each house has a well cared for garden with bushes, flowers of bright orange, yellow, and red, or the softer pastels like pink and lavender. The front porch, gateway, and balconies of each small house are studded with flower pots. Istanbul is the only city in the world which shares parts in two continents: one in Europe and one in Asia. One of the most memorable and enjoyable activities when in Istanbul is taking a boat tour in the Bosphorus strait which is a strip of water that is the meeting point between the Black Sea and Marmara Sea. On the Bosphorus boat tour you get to see both the Asian and European side of Istanbul. You can bargain with the sales agents because they start with a price of $100 and will finally accept $20 per person for the boat trip. Istanbul not only rekindles a love of Islam and awakens so many emotions but it also stimulates the appetite and excites the taste-buds because Turkish food is absolutely delicious. Try out the famous Iskander which has a layer of bread pieces soaked in tomato sauce, topped with sliced cooked lamb (shawerma style) and topped with a large scoop of yogurt. Meals are routinely served with Ayraan, a cold yogurt drink rather than sodas. Most restaurants serve Turkish tea on the house after a meal; their tea is fragrant and has a distinguished taste and they alternately serve herbal apple flavored tea. Savory Turkish baklava is dripping with sugary syrup and all varieties whether the ones filled with ground walnuts or pistachios are extremely tasty. Be sure to stop by at the shops that sell the famous Turkish delight, the soft, sweet, chewy treats that come in several flavors: rose, lemon, mint, and pomegranate, coated in either powdered sugar or grated coconut. In some of these shops as you select what you would like to buy, you are served tid-bits of dried fruit and Turkish delight and your choice of Turkish black coffee or tea. This short sugar and caffeine stop is a great way to give you the energy you may need to continue a tiring but wonderful day of sightseeing in Istanbul. This summer was my first time to visit Istanbul but it takes only once to become hooked and to fall in love with the city on two continents.
