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Getting down to basics in Dir'iyyah
Published in The Saudi Gazette on 30 - 07 - 2008

FOR tourists to Dir'iyyah, it is imperative to have an insight into its history to fully understand and learn about the historic significance of this region.
Pronounced ‘Ad-Dir'iyyah' and commonly known as Dar'iyyah, this is a historical settlement located about 30 km north-west of the city center of Riyadh. In Arabic, the word Dir'iyyah means thick, high and fortified. It is an oasis town, overlooking green valleys, rich with underground water resources -- a precious commodity not found in abundance in this part of the world. It is the ancestral home of Al-Sauds and the capital of the first Saudi State dating back to the 18th century.
Dir'iyyah is a popular tourist resort frequented by many Asian, Arab and Western expatriates who live and work in and around Riyadh. The ruins of the old palaces remind visitors that these palaces once lived up to their name and were indeed thick, high and fortified.
This area is popularly known as the Al-Turaif quarter, which is one of the first built precincts of Ad-Dir'iyyah on one side of the famous Wadi Hanifa (wadi means valley). The Al-Turaif zone gained importance as the home of the ruling family of the first Saudi state.
The second reason for the fame and importance of Dir'iyyah is the Bjiry quarter, situated on the other side of the famous valley. This is the precinct where the famed Sheikh Mohammad Bin Abdul Wahab (the illustrious Islamic religious scholar) used to live with his family and students. In fact, the oft-heard misnomers like ‘Wahabi' and ‘Wahabism' were coined after this eminent Islamic scholar. The third famous quarter is Al-Ghusaiba, which was the first capital of the state till 1683 A.D.
The Al-Turaif quarter occupies a special place in the historic Ad-Dir'iyyah settlement. It houses Salwa Palace, which was the residence of Al-Saud during the first Saudi state. It is believed to be the largest palace in Ad-Dir'iyyah, and is located on the northern part of the Al-Turaif precinct.
Besides this, there are a number of other archeological features, which are a witness to the glorious Saudi past. It is worth noting that the main building materials employed in Al-Turaif quarter were sun-dried mud bricks (also called adobe) for the walls, and limestone blocks for the foundations. For the roofing material Athil wood, palm tree leaves and branches were tastefully employed, which helped in keeping the enclosed space well insulated against both heat and cold. Besides Al-Turaif and Bjiry precinct, a fairly large inhabited suburb thrives on both sides of Wadi Hanifa. Many of these new suburbs sprang up after the establishment of King Saud University which is located nearby.
Its faculties, staff and other support employees prefer to live here, a place which is now called New Dir'iyyah. Engineers, technicians and employees of a neighboring thermal power plant also makeup a part of the populace of New Dir'iyyah.
The magnificent modern buildings of the King Saud University campus, on the Salbokh highway just opposite to the old Dir'iyyah settlements, have added glamour and beauty to the neighborhoods. The modern city of New Dir'iyyah is in fact built at a lower altitude at the foot of the hill upon which Turaif precinct is located.
To the north of the town, inside the valley, are a number of gardens, palm groves, small farms and many estates. Al-Ilb Dam lies further north and offers a scenic view for nature lovers who are seen flocking to the area on Fridays. The dam gets filled to its brim after rains and is a sight worth watching. In short, the history of Dir'iyyah is as old as the family history of Al-Saud. The origin of the House of Saud can be traced to as far back as 500 years, making it one of the most distinguished families in the Arabian Peninsula.
Traditionally, the Al-Saud were first associated with the Nejd cities of Dir'iyyah, and later with Riyadh. The first Saudi state emerged following the issuance of the famous “Ad-Dir'iyyah Accord” between Imam Mohammad Bin Abdul Wahab and Imam Mohammad bin Saud. The second Saudi State was later founded by Imam Turki Bin Abdullah.
For most of the 19 th century the House of Saud ruled over great expanses of the Arabian Peninsula. However, when Imam Faysal Bin Turki (ruler from 1834-38 and 1843-65) died after a peaceful and prosperous reign, two groups established territorial control. The Ottoman (Turks) occupied most of the eastern seaboard of the Arabian Peninsula and Al-Hassa (Hofuf) oasis. The second was a rival dynasty, the House of Al-Rashid. Although their capital was based in Hail (a Nejd city north of Riyadh), the Rashids had installed a deputy governor in Riyadh as well.
When Imam Abdur Rahman (father of King Abdul Aziz, the founder of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia) emerged as the head of Al-Saud, he and his followers attacked Riyadh; recapturing it and establishing their control. The Al-Rashids, however, returned to fight but found the defenses too strong and began a siege of the city. After 40 days, a peace agreement was negotiated in which King Abdul Aziz (then a small child) also participated.
However, this armistice was short-lived and Imam Abdur Rahman was then forced to evacuate his family in 1891. He sent some of his family members to Bahrain, while others took refuge with Al-Murra, a Bedouin tribe. From 1893, the Al-Saud were hosted in Kuwait by its ruler Sheikh Muhammad and then by Sheikh Mubarak Al-Sabah.
This experience of life in exile had a profound effect on the young and brave King Abdul Aziz who was restless to return to his ancestral place. Finally, on the 5th of Shawwal 1319 H corresponding to January 15, 1902 A.D, the young King Abdul Aziz Al-Saud (20 years then) mounted an attack on Al-Rashid, Governor of Riyadh and conquered the famous Masmak Fort situated in the south of Riyadh. He overpowered those inside the fort and thus gained control of the city.
This operation is recorded in Saudi history in the annals of the re-establishment of the Al-Saud rule. The Kingdom marked the Centennial anniversary of this day on the 5th of Shawwal 1419 H (corresponding to January 22, 1999) and the event was celebrated in the Kingdom all through the year.
After the historic annexation of Riyadh, it took some 30 more years for the visionary King Abdul Aziz to re-establish his full control throughout the length and breadth of the Arabian Peninsula. He is rightly credited for unifying the ever divided Arab bedouins and feuding tribes of this land and transforming them into one proud nation.
On 23rd September 1932, King Abdul Aziz Bin Abdur Rahman Al-Saud finally proclaimed this part of the Arabian Peninsula as the modern Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. Thus, 23rd September came to be known as the National Day of Saudi Arabia, celebrated by both nationals and expatriates alike.
– The writer can be contacted at: [email protected] __


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