WHOEVER thought that one day I'd find myself standing in Haile Selassie's bathroom, and, moreover, wondering what he would have with the bidet sitting in the corner? But there I was on a late June afternoon taking a look at the ceramic-tiled walls, free-standing sink, toilet and the bidet in which, I guessed, he probably washed his feet. The Emperor's bathroom, not to mention his entire palace, sits on what is now the campus of Addis Ababa University in Ethiopia's capital city. Selassie, the most famous of Ethiopeans, was the last in a long line of emperors, ascending to the throne in 1930 and vacating in 1974, with a five-year hiatus during the Italian occupation of 1936-1941. Occupation, yes, colonization, no. As any proud Ethiopian will tell you, Ethiopia was never colonized by a foreign power. Addis Ababa is not really a tourist destination. For many travelers, it is a place to spend a couple of days in transit to some other part of Ethiopia or to another country in Africa. In fact, Ethiopian Airlines had mistakenly checked my bag onward to Kilimanjaro, assuming that I, like the vast majority of the passengers on my flight from Dubai, was simply making a connection at Addis Ababa's Bole Airport. Fortunately, the ground staff at Bole Airport was able to grab my bag before it made the trip to Tanzania. Nothing against Tanzania, but I don't think my bag would have enjoyed it much without me. That doesn't mean that the Ethiopian capital has nothing to offer. In fact, although it is far from one of the world's most beautiful cities, the friendliness of its people, a general joie de vivre that permeates the streets and a perpetually spring-like highland climate make it a pleasant place to sojourn, especially during the suffocating summer months of the Arabian Peninsula. It has history and a vibrant nightlife, the latter coming as a very pleasant surprise to anyone expecting the streets to roll up after dark. But culture comes first. Housed in the former emperor's former digs is the Ethnographic Museum of Ethiopia, a winding exhibition through the multitude of people, tribes, languages and customs that make up the country. It serves as an eye-opening introduction to a country whose diversity belies its role as the cradle of humanity, one of the oldest inhabited regions on earth. It was near here that Lucy, the oldest fossil of a (perhaps) human-related hominid ever discovered, lived some 3 million years ago. Unfortunately, Lucy is on her own sojourn right now, taking a five-year vacation from Addis Ababa and touring museums in the US. Unknown to even many Ethiopians, however, is that the Lucy – actually her skull -- has only been on public display in Ethiopia only twice since its discovery in 1974. The rest of the time only a replica is on view at the National Museum as the original is kept locked away in a vault. After visiting the museums, sit for a bit at one of the many sidewalk cafes lining the street in front of the university and have a soft drink or a coffee. The tables are full of students and teachers and the vibe, simultaneously relaxing and stimulating, is likely to leave you with a desire to return to university. Shopping in Addis ababa is a unique experience, especially if you are coming from Saudi Arabia and its endless malls of brand-name stores. Aside from a couple of hotels and soft drinks, travelers are not likely to come across much that is familiar in the way of retail. Which doesn't mean there's not plenty to buy. Addis Ababa's women are some of the most stylishly dressed in Africa, whether they've adopted Western fashions or wrapped themselves in the shawls and scarves that comprise the traditional national dress. For an authentic shopping experience, head to the Mercato, the “largest outdoor market in East Africa,” or so all the tourist brochures say. Whether you are looking for metal piping, textiles, toys, bicycles, religous icons, shoes, spices, fresh fruits and vegetables, or new tires, the Mercato is the place to find it. On weekdays, prepare for a leisurely stroll and don't be too bothered by the sometimes aggressive shopkeepers offering you their wares. On weekends, though, hold onto your wallet or purse and make sure you know what is going on around you all the time. Violent crime is all but nonexistent in Addis, but hands snaking into pockets and purses are not uncommon when the crowds get thick. And remember to bargain. Always bargain. If you are good at it, you'll never pay more than half of the seller's initial asking price. About the only place you probably should not bargain is the Leprosy Hospital, which has a crafts store with beautifully crafted traditional textiles and other articles handcrafted by patients. You can marvel at them while they work. Questions are gladly answered and all the craftsmen and women are happy to see visitors. The prices are low and the money goes to a good cause. Ethiopian cuisine is unique, and traditional restaurants abound. Highly recommended is the Addis Ababa Restaurant. Located in a traditional-style round house, the main dining room is a large and round room around the perimeter of which are tables where diners enjoy mutton, chicken and beef stews in dollops atop thin sheets of sponge-like injira bread. Meals are generally communal with each diner receiving his own rolled up injira, which he can use to pick up meat and vegetables. For more privacy, there are smaller rooms with fewer tables in back. For a more contemporary experience, there is the Square Garden, sitting directly across from Millenium Square, site of the orthodox Christian millenial celebration last September. Above the restaurant is the podium where Communist leader Mengistu Halle Madam regularly addressed the crowds. That, of course, was before he was convicted of genocide. During one of my visits to Square Garden, my companion and I were left to dine in the dark as one of the rolling blackouts that peridoically cut electricity to different parts of the city settled in. Dinner by candlelight wasn't bad; it just made it a little difficult to see what I was eating. For pizza, try the Pizza Deli Roma on Bole Street, a favorite of both locals and expats. Don't look too closely at the walls, though, or you may notice that people are not the only ones making themselves at home at this funky favorite. Once nighttime falls, the city truly comes alive. One unique spot is The Old Milk House, situated on the tenth floor of the Kokeb building, a rundown apartment building across the boulevard from the UN complex. It serves a mixture of Ethiopian and Western food to a crowd of cool, middle class Ethiopians, UN and other NGO workers and, when I was there, a British family in town to adopt an Ethiopian baby. Prices are low and the views are great. For live music, try Harlem Jazz, which doesn't feature traditional jazz but, rather, the Ethiopian form of it, which is just as infectious. Friday nights feature K. Allen, a Washington, D.C. transplant, who had a truly international crowd enthralled until the wee hours of a Saturday morning. While there, talk to anyone because they will talk back and you may be surprised by whom you meet. Addis offers a full range of hotels, many of which are not likely to be acceptable to many travelers. At the top end is the Addis Sheraton, a super luxurious compound that meets world-class luxury standards. At a minimum of US$220 a night, it should. The Hilton is cheaper and, if you order book a room well in advance using their website, you can get a room for well under US$150. After that, there is the Ghion Hotel, a government-run tourist hotel that is old and a little dreary but perfectly serviceable at around US$70 a night. It is also surrounded by a huge garden and park. Although a relatively calm city, Addis Ababa is not necessarily a relaxing place. The poverty can sometimes excruciating. Much of the population lives in slums and children and others are asking for food and money, all the time. For all its wonders, it is important not to lose sight of the human drama that is unfolding on the streets of Addis Ababa. It is mankind at its best and its worst. __
